|
Today, television brings
the sights and sounds of foreign countries right into our living
rooms, people travel easily to the Middle East and beyond, and
there is hardly a major city in the British Isles which is
without at least one purpose-built mosque. We have become
familiar with the appearance of Islamic, or as it was often
called, Saracenic architecture in our midst. It is, therefore,
difficult to imagine how ordinary people must have reacted on
their first sight of this exotic addition to the often
distinguished, but very Western, buildings of Dublin.
A visitor
from England signing himself 'A moist man' wrote on his return,
The morning was raw and wet and cheerless when I left my
hotel, and, after a sloppy walk, found myself before a building of
oriental architecture, crowned with fantastic minarets, as rich with
Saracenic ornament as plaster of Paris and stucco could make them.
And in
1868, eight years after the baths opened, the author of a guide book to
Dublin
wrote,
Turning towards the left from Merrion Street, our
attention is attracted by the strange looking erection on the west side
of Lincoln Place, which, upon inquiry, we shall be told is
THE TURKISH BATHS
This elevation presents a quaint, but pleasing,
appearance, with its many narrow pilasters, half-moon apertures,
fretwork, ornamental minarets, etc, though, we believe, not quite
orthodox as regards architectural principles.
But writers
in trade journals of the day, as here in the Dublin Builder,
clearly seemed to approve, and were delighted that Irish builders were
seen to be so capable of executing this unusual design.
Externally the building is a decided acquisition, and the
site seems to have been judiciously selected. Its general character
takes both strangers and citizens rather by surprise, and many an
enquiring countenance is directed towards its minarets, elaborate
fretwork, half-moon apertures, tall variegated brick shaft rising 85
feet in the background, &c, &c, which form a very novel and agreeable
contrast to the 'western' style of architecture prevailing here. The
front—with the exception of the base course, which is of granite—is
entirely cemented in Portland, and its execution—the elaborate
ornamentation especially, so novel to our workmen—is most creditable to
the contractors for the plastering throughout, Messrs Hogan and Son, of
Great Brunswick-street.
As a work of art, the building may be pronounced
successful; and as its purpose has a philanthropic tendency, we trust
that the speculation may prove equally so. Mr Barter, architect and
sculptor, of Cork, designed and superintended it to completion, Mr Dwyer
efficiently assisting as clerk of works, and Mr Barry overseeing
the masonry and heating departments. Nearly all—if not all—the
artificers, except in the plastering and cementing departments, employed
are Corkonians, and the work redounds to their credit.
The
baths were built for the Turkish Bath Company of
Dublin Ltd and opened in mid-February 1860, probably on Monday 20th.
The main
frontage of the building faced Lincoln Place. About 186 feet in length,
it comprised three sections, that in the centre being
slightly recessed and partly fronted with an entrance porch.
Following the obtuse angle joining Lincoln Place
with Leinster Street, an adjoining
building, in characteristic style and with separate
entrance, housed a refreshment
room, while at the rear, with its own entrance off Leinster
Street, was an area
providing
Turkish baths for horses and other animals.
The main entrance led into a central ticket-office from
which a spacious staircase led to the company board-room and
other apartments on the first floor. Above this area, though
only visible from the outside, was a 50ft ogee-shaped dome.
The architect seems to have missed an opportunity here
because, as the writer in the Dublin Builder pointed
out, the dome 'might, to our minds, have been made an
internal, as well as an external, feature, as it can
scarcely be adapted to any other than a lumber or domestic's
sleeping room'.
On either side of the ticket office, separate facilities
were provided for male and female bathers, the men's
department being on the right and the women's on the left,
each being entered through its own porch after the purchase
of a ticket.
Although first and second class tickets were the norm, at
some stage there may also have been times set aside for
third class bathers. When the baths opened, a first class
ticket cost 2/6d while a shampoo cost an additional
shilling.
First class tickets were expensive in relation to typical
wages of the day. Before the baths opened, the Turkish Bath
Company advertised for a husband and wife team to become
Superintendent and Matron of the baths.
The major part of the salary offered comprised 'apartments,
fire and light', to which was added £100 per annum. So in
addition to their accommodation, each of them was to receive
just under 2/9d per day, or just under threepence more than
the cost of a single first class Turkish bath. In the event,
the company appointed a single man and woman to the
positions, so that the matron would have received a smaller
sum even than that.
But the men's
and women's baths were similar. From the ticket hall, bathers entered a
large room, or divan, about 32 ft by 20ft, with a panelled ceiling
'painted in many colours'. On each side were 'open timberwork
stalls…constructed of pitch pine, furnished with low benches for
dressing and undressing, separated by sheeted partitions and screened
from view by scarlet curtains.' Above, approached by a small flight of
steps, was an area furnished with loungers where bathers were able to
rest after their bath and obtain coffee and a chibouk.
Leading off
this cooling-room, the 16 ft square tepidarium was fitted with reclining
slabs, and had a vaulted ceiling inset with variegated lights. Ventilators
in the wall regulated the temperature. The hotter caldarium was similar
in shape, size and manner of lighting.
Leading off
the shampooing room, through open oriental-shaped arches with piers and
dressings of coloured bricks, were small cubicles, each with water
cisterns supplying tubes which allowed hot and cold water sprays to be
directed over the body at will.
The hot
rooms were heated by a hypocaust running underneath floors finished with
various patterns of Minton's tiles.
We can get
a more informal view of how the baths appeared to the visitor, and of
the bathing procedure adopted, by quoting further from the visitor
calling himself 'a moist man'.
I was conducted into a large room around which were
arranged little curtained pavilions about the size and shape of a
four-post bedstead. The room was decidedly Turkish in its aspect and
appointments, the crescent form being as far as possible given to
every thing, while ottomans and other matters of oriental furniture were
to be seen. The servants wore long scarlet flowing dressing gowns and
Turkish slippers, and on stands were arranged trays with china
coffee-cups, &c...
The calidarium...was still more ottomanic than the
[tepidarium], being in dim prismatic twilight, and without windows,
unless the little star-shaped scraps of crimson, blue, and
amethyst-stained glass, artistically inserted in the vaulted roof, could
be so-called.
Inside the calidarium is another room, some
five-and-twenty degrees hotter than that in which we were. Through the
heavy curtains which guarded the door way between both, I could hear the
wooden clogs moving about the inner apartment, and ever and anon the
curtain was raised, and we were joined by a gentleman literally reeking
from those still more torrid regions; for though it is requested that
persons will not pass to the hottest place without permission or
direction from the attendant, there seemed to be no objection to those
who had passed the curtain emerging once more into the less ardent
sphere. Every two or three minutes, a man entered with a tray full of
glasses of cold water, which he politely handed round to us, and which
we drank...
Thus we passed the melting moments, the attendants
walking round us from time to time, and testing our sudorific state by
slapping us on the back and shoulders.
Dr Barter's
involvement in all aspects of the running of the baths was most
important. Just prior to their opening, he gave two lectures on the
'Past and Present History and Social Bearing of the Improved Turkish or
Irish Bath' with 'full directions for its use in health and disease'.
He also ensured that there was medically based
supervision of the bathers while in his establishments. Not only were
bathers required to check with an attendant before entering the hottest
room, but they were sometimes told, as was our 'moist man', that they
were already sweating sufficiently without using it at all.
During the
week in which the baths opened—they were closed on Sundays—the receipts
were £55 12s. 3d. However, we cannot tell how this sum was made up in
terms of how many bathers there were in each class, how many shampoos
were given, or how much was due to the sale of refreshments.
But we do know that during its first four years, 115,000 tickets were
sold—an average of over ninety bathers per day.
Additional
income would have been received from the use of the Turkish baths for
horses (though no evidence has come to light to indicate whether these
were successful or not), and from the restaurant adjoining the baths. The latter was
never directly operated by the Baths Company but leased to a number of
restauranteurs over the years, the contract usually being put out to
tender.
Between
1861 and 1870 it was known as the Café de Paris and run, in turn by
Burman & Muret, Olin & Muret, Pierre Olin and, finally, Mme Olin. For the
next four years it was run by a Mr Thomas Woycke, from 1875 by Patrick
Barrett, and from 1885 until the baths closed by Mrs Jane Barrett.
The
restaurant, it can be assumed therefore, must have been a profitable one,
but we do not know whether the company received a percentage of the
profits, or only an annual rental.
Each of the
restauranteurs advertised different aspects of their service. Olin &
Muret emphasised that their breakfasts, lunches,
and dinners were in 'the best French style' and that dinners were
'supplied in town and country'.
In 1865 they were doing so well that they added three extra dining rooms
for private parties,
and provided early morning breakfasts for those who took advantage
of the Turkish baths being 'open on the arrival of the Early Mails, at
4.30 am' and had their 'Luggage taken care of'.
In 1870
Thomas Woycke added a coffee room for ladies and also offered board and
lodging.
In 1877 Patrick Barrett emphasised that his 'Sleeping Apartments' were
'available for travellers and for ladies coming to town for the purpose
of taking Turkish Baths',
and by the following year his sleeping apartments had turned into
Barrett's Family Hotel.
Changes in
management at the Turkish baths, though not as frequent as those at the
restaurant, were of rather more significance. The first of these
occurred around 1867 in circumstances which remain unclear.
Since its
opening, the baths had been directly operated by the Turkish Bath
Company of Dublin with the continued involvement of Dr Barter and with
Stephen Stokes (the original appointee) as Superintendent. (The original
Matron, a Miss Cranwell, was replaced in 1866 by a Mrs Stokes—Reader,
perhaps she married him?)
By 1867, Dr
Barter had ceased to have any connection with the Lincoln Place baths,
and the company had leased them to Richard H Bushe, JP, the baths
continuing to be run on a day-to-day basis by Mr and Mrs Stokes.
In October
that year, an advertisement for the baths appeared in the Irish times 21
announcing that the new lessee,
to meet the requirements of the Medical
Profession and the Public has had the Baths newly decorated and fitted
with CRYSTAL FOUNTAINS—Which create a genial moisture in the hot
rooms...
This is
surprising for a number of reasons: first, it was by now generally
accepted that the use of dry heat resulted in a more effective Turkish
bath; second, those members of the medical profession who had attacked
Barter's Improved Turkish bath claiming that only moist air was
medically safe to use had largely been discredited and their motives
seen not to have been objective (see:
The hot air controversy: wet air or dry air?);
third, in an 1860 discussion in The Lancet on the reintroduction
of the Turkish bath in Europe and who should have the credit for it, Bushe had been one of Barter's main
supporters and was reported as considering that the bath was 'greatly
improved by the adoption of the old Roman method of heating, and by the
abandonment of the Turkish "innovation" of admitting vapour.'
One can
only assume that there had been a major board room clash on matters of
principle—perhaps arising from a need to reverse a fall in the number
of bathers. But without any company records we will probably never know
why such a dramatic volte-face was being proposed for one of Barter's
showpiece establishments.
Barter,
meanwhile, was considering a fresh start in Dublin and in June 1868
advertised, from St Ann's, that he,
Wanted immediately to lease or purchase a
suitable site in a central part of the city, the north preferred, for
the erection of a first class Turkish Bath; a good residence would be
desirable.
This was to
lead barely nine months later to the opening of
The Hammam at
11-12 Upper Sackville Street (now O'Connell Street) on 17 March 1869.
In addition
to the controversial crystal fountains which were installed at Lincoln
Place in October 1867 to add moisture to the hot rooms, the company
redecorated the public areas and installed hot and cold water baths in
the men's and women's baths at 1/6 per bath, 'For the accommodation of
those who desire FIRST CLASS WATER BATHS—a want long felt in Dublin'.
The next
refurbishment, in 1875, was in two phases. More up-to-date showers were installed
early in the year,
and a few months afterwards, but many years after other establishments with similar
pretensions, came the addition of 'a commodious and ample Plunge Bath…without any additional
charge.'
The opening
hours of the baths had been varied over the years to try to attract
additional bathers. Travellers had always been a promotional target and,
after the refurbishment, the new water baths were opened so that,
Persons arriving by the mails at 4.30 am
can gain admittance by ringing the bell, and can have their bath and
breakfast, and be in time to proceed to the Holyhead boat.
Later
advertisements
stressed the closeness of the baths to Westland Row Station.
Around this
period, competition between the three main Turkish baths in
Dublin—Lincoln Place, Barter's Hammam, and the newly opened
establishment next to Millar and Jury's Hotel in
Stephen's
Green—was quite fierce, with all three establishments
advertising regularly in the local newspapers.
The Lincoln
Place baths were at a disadvantage. Their prices were higher than those
of the others and had to be lowered. They were the oldest of the three
establishments and had lost their connection with Barter. The new baths
in Stephen's Green were heated and ventilated by more modern methods
and were deemed by many to be far superior in this respect. Furthermore,
the latter baths were situated close to the Royal College of
Surgeons, forcing Lincoln Place to compete by making an offer of reduced
prices for all members of the medical profession.
By 1880,
the directors had either had enough or been forced to call it a day, and
the company had gone into voluntary liquidation. An advertisement
appeared on 24 February
offering Lincoln Place Turkish baths for sale by tender, 'well
fitted up and in working order as a going concern'.
They were
purchased by their new rivals, Millar and Jury. The baths were closed
for refurbishment, reopening on 30 November. The main change was the
installation of the same heating and ventilation system which had proved
so successful at Stephen's Green.
The new
owners were unlucky, however, for less than six months after installing
their new ventilation system they were taken to court by a Mr Peter
Lawlor for 'alleged
negligence'. Lawlor and two friends had visited the baths on
4 April 1881 and while resting in the cooling-room were overcome by
carbon monoxide fumes and lost consciousness. The Manager, John Curran,
sent for a Doctor, Henry Sherlock, who treated them, and after a few
hours they returned home. Lawlor later claimed to be suffering headaches
and 'palpitations of the heart' and had to see the doctor on three
further occasions.
In court,
Dr Sherlock confirmed that the plaintiff's illness was caused by carbon
monoxide gas. The case for the defence was that there was 'no negligence
or unskilfulness on their part, either in the construction of the baths
or in their maintenance', and that the illness was caused by the
plaintiff's own negligence in using the bath after being warned not to
do so.
Curran
testified that when the three arrived he warned them not to take a bath
as there was a smell of sulphur, but Lawlor said 'the smell of sulphur
would only give them an appetite for breakfast.' After the doctor left,
the plaintiff and his friends 'took a nap on the couches, and went away
laughing, stating that they were as right as a fiddle'.
Under
cross-examination Curran said that one of the attendants also lost
consciousness. Asked about the cause of the incident, Curran thought
that it was an obstruction in the flue 'caused by its being shaken by
the storm of the previous night. Further employees were called who
confirmed that the three men were warned not to enter the bath.
The jury
returned a verdict in favour of Lawlor, but he was only awarded damages
of sixpence and refused costs.
The baths
were closed for a fortnight after this incident while repairs and
further alterations were carried out. Coming so soon after the
installation of their new ventilation system, a case of this nature
must have been a considerable setback.
One result
of this was that the quality of the heating and ventilation system
('acknowledged so perfect')
and its origin at the Stephen's Green Turkish Baths, was to be a
feature of all future advertising for the Lincoln Place baths. And
many of the company's advertisements, such as this one from an 1885
guidebook, drew
the readers attention to both their establishments together.
There were other problems too. Just as Millar & Jury had given
The Turkish Bath Company of Dublin new competition when they
opened in Stephen's Green, so were they themselves faced with
powerful competition when a new establishment opened in
Leinster Street, almost opposite the Lincoln Place baths,
just a year after their court case.
Worse, the owners of the new Turkish bath were William and James
Sloane, the father and son team which had installed their own
heating and ventilation system in Stephen's Green. Finally,
although the new baths were aimed at a less affluent clientele,
their offer of first class Turkish baths for only a shilling
forced Millar & Jury to lower the prices at Lincoln Place and,
at Stephen's Green, offer second class Turkish baths for
only sixpence at any time of the day.
The emphasis on the superiority of their heating and ventilation
system continued during the eighties and into the nineties, but
a new emphasis on health, general at first, began to appear.
But later, advertisements appeared which offered the Turkish
bath as an effective means of preventing cholera.
Headed 'HOW TO MEET THE CHOLERA',
it suggests that the best safeguard is 'sound and vigorous
health' and that those who live in towns can avail themselves of
the Turkish bath to purify the blood and tone the body. 'Those
whose blood is pure and whose tissues are sound and in vigour
are not the soil in which the Microbe of Cholera will take root
and flourish.'
As the 1890s progressed competition between the main Turkish
baths—the Hammam started by Barter on the north of the River
Liffey, and four others south of the river—Millar & Jury decided
to revert to their main interest, running hotels.
In 1889 William and James Sloane struck again, opening a new low
price Turkish bath on an adjacent side of Stephen's Green. By
1897 they had sold their Stephen's Green baths to James Stean
Millar, and in June 1900 advertisements appeared in the
Scotsman, Manchester guardian and the Irish times offering the
Lincoln Place Turkish Baths, Manager's house, and restaurant for
sale as a going concern with vacant possession.
But whoever bought the premises, they were never again used as
Turkish baths. They were demolished some time around 1970.
The Lincoln
Place Turkish Baths were, famously, called 'the mosque of the baths' by
Leopold Bloom in James Joyce's Ulysses. But they could not have
been 'one of
Leopold Bloom's first ports of call on 16 June 1904', as claimed by
Frederick O'Dwyer
(among others). It is not merely, as we have noted, that the baths closed
four years before Bloomsday; Bloom does indeed notice the baths building in passing, but
actually only had time for an ordinary bath which he took at the
Turkish and Warm Baths at 11
Leinster Street, opposite, as discussed
elsewhere
on this site.
|